Bikaner by Luxury Train

Rising from the Thar Desert like a mirage of red and gold sandstone, Bikaner is one of Rajasthan's most captivating yet least crowded royal cities. Founded in 1488 by Rao Bika, a Rathore prince who struck out from Jodhpur to build his own kingdom, the city grew wealthy on caravan trade routes linking India to Central Asia, and that history is written into its havelis, temples and one of the finest forts in India. Unlike Jaipur or Udaipur, Bikaner still feels wonderfully unpolished — narrow lanes open onto spice-scented bazaars, camels amble past centuries-old gateways, and the desert silence begins the moment you step outside the old city walls.

Bikaner is also synonymous with the camel, thanks to the elite Bikaner Camel Corps that once guarded these frontiers and the government breeding farm that still operates nearby. It is this blend of martial history, desert culture and princely opulence that makes the city a signature stop for travellers exploring Rajasthan by rail.

The city is a highlight for guests travelling aboard the Maharajas' Express and the Palace on Wheels, both of which include Bikaner on their Rajasthan itineraries, delivering travellers directly into the heart of this desert kingdom in five-star comfort after a night gliding across the plains of northern India.

Junagarh Fort

Built between 1589 and 1594 by Raja Rai Singh, a general in the Mughal emperor Akbar's army, Junagarh is one of the few major Rajasthani forts not built on a hilltop. Its interior is a labyrinth of ornately decorated palaces, including the mirrored Anup Mahal, the marble Karan Mahal and the Phool Mahal, along with a museum housing royal armour, vintage cars and even a WWI-era biplane.

Karni Mata Temple, Deshnoke

Around 30 km south of the city, this extraordinary marble temple is home to thousands of revered black rats, considered incarnations of the goddess's devotees. Pilgrims and curious travellers alike come to witness the rats feeding from communal bowls of milk and grain, and to spot the rare white rat said to bring good fortune.

Lalgarh Palace

Commissioned in 1902 by Maharaja Ganga Singh in memory of his father, this red sandstone palace blends Rajput, Mughal and European architectural styles. Part of it remains the royal family's residence, part functions as a heritage hotel, and part houses a museum of hunting trophies, photographs and royal memorabilia.

National Research Centre on Camel

Bikaner has long been India's camel capital, and this research farm on the city's outskirts breeds and studies the animal that shaped the region's history. Visitors can watch the camels up close, ride one across the dunes, and even sample camel-milk ice cream and chocolate at the on-site parlour.

Rampuria Havelis

The old city's merchant quarter is lined with elaborately carved havelis built by wealthy Marwari traders in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Their honeycombed sandstone facades, latticed jharokha windows and frescoed interiors reflect the fortunes made along the historic trade caravans.

Gajner Palace

Once a royal hunting lodge on the shores of Gajner Lake, this red sandstone palace sits amid a wildlife sanctuary where imperial sandgrouse, blackbuck and chinkara gazelle can still be spotted. It is now a heritage hotel, but its lakeside gardens and terraces remain open for a glimpse of princely leisure.

Bhandasar and Sandeshwar Jain Temples

These twin 15th- and 16th-century Jain temples in the old city are renowned for their frescoed ceilings, mirror work and intricately carved yellow sandstone pillars, offering a quieter counterpoint to Bikaner's forts and palaces.

The Great Thar Desert & Camel Safaris

Beyond the city limits, the dunes of the Thar Desert offer sunset camel rides, jeep safaris and overnight desert camps, giving travellers a taste of the arid, big-sky landscape that has defined Bikaner's identity for centuries.

Bikaner is one of India's great food towns, famous nationwide for its namkeen (savoury snacks) and rich, ghee-laden Marwari cuisine born of a desert climate where fresh vegetables were once scarce and preservation was an art form.

• Bikaneri Bhujia — the city's most famous export, a crunchy, spiced gram-flour snack made with moth beans, sold by the kilo in shops throughout the old city.
• Rasgulla and Bikaneri sweets — Bikaner's confectioners are celebrated for milk-based sweets and namkeen platters, often sold from the same century-old shops that supplied the royal court.
• Ker Sangri — a distinctive desert vegetable dish combining wild ker berries and sangri beans, cooked with dried mango powder and spices, a Marwari staple born of the region's arid terrain.
• Dal Baati Churma — Rajasthan's signature meal of baked wheat rolls (baati) cracked open with ghee, served alongside spiced lentils (dal) and sweet crumbled wheat and jaggery (churma).
• Rajasthani Thali — a full spread of gatte ki sabzi (gram-flour dumplings in yogurt curry), kadhi, papad and pickles, best sampled at the old city's traditional eateries.
• Camel milk products — a Bikaner curiosity, with camel-milk ice cream, chocolate and even coffee served at the camel research farm's dairy parlour.

The bazaars of the old city, particularly around Kote Gate and Station Road, are the best places to graze on freshly fried bhujia, kachori and jalebi alongside local shoppers, while heritage properties such as Lalgarh Palace serve refined Rajasthani thalis in palatial dining rooms.